How fashion can embrace neurodiversity - Vogue Business

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• How fashion can embrace neurodiversity - Vogue Business
• Prada intros anti-uniform during all-digital Fashion Week - FOX40
• 'Hate-wear' and 'sadwear': fashion's new names for lockdown dressing - The Guardian
• Six fashion podcasts to seek this week - Financial Times
• Fashion Leaves the Trump Years Behind | The Week Ahead, BoF Professional | BoF - The Business of Fashion

How fashion can embrace neurodiversity - Vogue Business Posted: 17 Jan 2021 09:58 PM PST Models often have several people touching them at once: hairstylists pull at their locks, makeup artists prod their faces, stylists accidentally pinch them while adjusting clothes. Add flashing lights, people speaking over music and itchy labels, and the result is sensory overload that sometimes leaves model Nina Marker unable to think or breathe. Marker has Asperger's syndrome and autism. Like 20 per cent of people working in creative industries, she is neurodivergent, managing often invisible conditions that shape how she engages with the world. The term neurodivergent (as opposed to neurotypical) covers a range of natural neurological variations, from autism and ADHD to Tourette's. It applies to some of fashion's most prolific figures: designers Tommy Hilfiger and Paul Smith are both dyslexic, and the model Cara Delevingne is dyspraxic. "Growing up with dyslexia, I always understood the unique challenges and frustrations that could be faced in daily life," says Hilfiger. Several studies have extolled the potential benefits of neurodivergence for creativity and innovation. In a 2009 report, Cass Business School professor Julie Logan found that 35 per cent of US entrepreneurs identified as dyslexic. Another survey, in the UK, suggested that 40 per cent of the country's self-made millionaires were dyslexic. Copenhagen-based Marker works with her agents at The Society and Elite to plan recuperation breaks between jobs, practice yoga to increase her ability to cope, and avoid triggers such as long-haul flights with lots of layovers or unknown places. Many neurodivergent people have to work without these considerations, facing discrimination in the workplace through exclusive unsympathetic management and ignorant colleagues. In a 2018 survey of 600 neurodivergent people in the UK by the Westminster AchieveAbility Commission, 52 per cent said they had faced discrimination during recruitment processes. Another report found that 84 per cent of neurodivergent employees were constantly stressed, compared to 49 per cent of their neurotypical peers. Unless businesses make the adjustments neurodivergent staff need to thrive, they risk losing employees with untapped potential, says Nadya Powell, co-founder of inclusive workplace consultancy Utopia. "A lot of people don't get diagnosed until very late, by which point they might have complex mental health challenges from struggling with a condition without support. Some people don't disclose their diagnosis (this is called 'covering') so they don't get professional support, and those that do disclose often don't get adequate support," she explains. If you don't accommodate neurodiversity, you won't get the best out of people or retain them. Neurodivergent people have plenty to offer. Norwegian photographer Nora Nord has ADHD, which manifests in her excellent problem-solving skills and her ability to forge connections with her subjects. Indian designer Rohan Chhabra, who works for Ralph Lauren, says his dyslexia allows him to visualise complex garment constructions. "This is not a minority," continues Powell. "We need differences in our brains to be creative and innovative, and that can be hugely advantageous for businesses." Barriers to employment Last year, consultancy Utopia released a handbook for embracing neurodiversity in creative industries with Universal Music, highlighting the barriers to entry many neurodivergent people face and how to overcome them. Lack of awareness was one of the biggest obstacles. "People can see ethnicity, gender and most disabilities, but neurodiversity is easier to hide. It's neglected because it's really misunderstood," explains Powell. Marker has been publicly disclosing her diagnoses for four years now, but still has to remind people on set what it means. "The most common misconception is that because I look 'normal', I can work exactly the same as neurotypical people," she says. "That is definitely not the case." Powell wants to correct some other misconceptions. "You can't say autism is a superpower without realising that isn't the case for everyone with autism," she says. "For some, it can lead to failed relationships, mental health disorders and homelessness." "Lots of neurodivergent people find it difficult to get employed in the first place," adds dyslexic creative director Ali Hanan, pointing to a report by Britain's National Autistic Society showing only 16 per cent of autistic adults were in full-time work in 2016. As the founder of global not-for-profit consultancy Creative Equals, Hanan provides guidance for companies such as Cos and Google on diversity and inclusion. "Dyslexics might be cast aside for spelling mistakes on their CV, people with Tourette's might become nervous and have more tics, and people with autism might have sensory overload or struggle to create empathy. Recruiters need to give neurodivergent candidates the chance to communicate their needs so the employer can adapt and set them up for success." This could be as simple as emailing questions in advance or arranging interviews so the candidate doesn't have to travel during busy rush hours. "If you don't accommodate neurodiversity, you won't get the best out of people or retain them." Brands can offer full-time staff training and personalised adjustments, but fashion has more transient freelancers than most industries. The lack of ongoing support and the extent to which work relies on personal relationships can leave neurodivergent freelancers more vulnerable. Stylist Mia Maxwell has a borderline personality disorder and emotional dysregulation, but also experiences symptoms of ADHD and autism. "I often feel such intense excitement on a job that I drain my energy sources and become almost too hyper-focused or manic," they explain. "I want people to like being around me so they book me again. It doesn't always feel comfortable and can be emotionally exhausting." Personalised solutions Transient teams may also harbour more personal biases. "It's been really surprising to us how little people know," says Zoe Proctor, co-founder of inclusive talent agency Zebedee, which specialises in increasing representation of people who have traditionally been excluded from fashion and media. "Doing workshops and raising awareness has been so important for us, to try and educate all the people on set." Zebedee asks all potential models to fill out a lengthy form before attending casting days designed to mimic professional sets, so its agents can see how models cope with that environment and what adjustments they might need on set. Some might not like particular music, fabrics or words. They might feel more comfortable if they've seen photos of the location in advance. "We get to know everybody on a personal basis before we add them to our books because we don't want to set them up to fail," says Proctor. "Triggers and adjustments may seem trivial to neurotypical people, but they must be respected." Two portraits from Nora Nord's series on ADHD. Jade (left) is a fashion graduate who has modelled for Nick Knight and Gareth Pugh. Calm (right) is a model and musician who works in fashion retail. © Nora Nord Catering to individuals' needs requires open conversations and supportive environments says Pip Jamieson, founder of UK creative networking platform The Dots. Her email signature says "Delightfully dyslexic, excuse typos!" to encourage empathy in people she works with. "My brain is wired differently, which has problems as well as the gifts of higher personal communication skills. My team knows my strengths and weaknesses and they're open about theirs in return," she says. Emma Case worked in trims for six years in the UK, spanning high street and major luxury brands. She left the industry in 2014, coming to the conclusion that she wouldn't get the support she needed to thrive. "ADHD and dyspraxia in and of themselves can't impact your career," she says of her diagnoses. "What impacts your career is whether or not you're supported." Case believes this is an industry-wide issue, and links it to the unsustainable pace of production. "Working in fashion was fun, exciting and varied, which could make it a great career path for people with ADHD. But the busy open-plan studios and fast pace didn't leave space to think. We're high-energy people who can hyper-focus and be incredibly productive, but it comes down to the environment we're in," she explains. "I do not want to point fingers at a single brand because the vast majority are unaware of neurodiversity. A lot of people in fashion are exhausted, whether they're neurodivergent or not." Issues with open-plan offices are mentioned by almost everyone Vogue Business spoke to. "Most of the research into what makes a brilliant office is predicated on neurotypical, able-bodied people," says Utopia's Powell. "We need to design for mixed needs rather than dominant needs. Neurodiversity is so individual, you cannot make generalisations." She recommends businesses employ a neurodiversity lead to make suggestions and adjustments as needed. Chhabra's manager shares her notes with him after meetings, while Maxwell has an assistant for the administrative tasks they struggle with. Dyslexic designer Jim Rokos divides his work into computer and screen-free tasks, so he can vary his day. He says brands could unlock neurodivergent designers' creativity by setting abstract rather than prescriptive creative briefs: "Instead of asking me to design a new hood, ask me to design a jacket so people can feel privacy in public." "There's work to be done and I don't think any industry is getting it right yet," says Case. "Fashion is no worse than any other industry, but it stands to gain a lot by understanding and embracing neurodivergent people." To receive the Vogue Business newsletter, sign up here. Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com. More from this author:  Thinking outside the fashion box Gucci ties with Alibaba's Tmall in China e-commerce race How can fashion make marketing more sustainable?

Prada intros anti-uniform during all-digital Fashion Week - FOX40 Posted: 17 Jan 2021 02:23 PM PST MILAN (AP) — No traffic jams, no rush to the next venue, no front rows — not even socially distanced. Milan Fashion Week is unfolding entirely on computer screens and social media platforms this round for the first time ever, as the persistent virus resurgence dashed any hopes of even a handful of physical shows. Luxury is in an enforced period of evolution in this new world order of rotating lockdowns, where virtually no one has anywhere to go. So it was a mostly captive audience that flocked to social media by the hundreds of thousands (and counting as the shows live on virtually) to watch Milan designers unveil new menswear collections for next winter, which, vaccines willing, may see a return to in-person shopping. In its digitally conceived preview, Prada on Sunday introduced the new anti-uniform that speaks to our new intimacy in our ever-tighter circles: luxury long-johns. The first menswear collection by the Miuccia Prada-Raf Simons collaboration announced almost a year ago was unveiled on a runway traversing spaces clad in soft faux fur in purple, celeste and scarlet. Skinny men in tight knit union suits in graphic architecture-inspired patterns grooved in outtakes spliced into the runway show. The union suits emphasized both the human body and freedom, elements fundamental to the collection, the designers said in notes. They were worn tightly under oversized coats and huge V-neck sweaters, or as a layer of comfort under a work suit, should the occasion arise. "It is not often we find in fashion something that's so flexible, with so many facets," Prada said in a video conversation with international fashion students. "With one piece you can express so many things, leaving open many possibilities." The designers said their still-new collaboration was based on the principle: if the other didn't like an idea, it gets dropped. Or the other is won over, which was the case with Prada accepting pinstripes she has long loathed. "What I think is good, is the possibility to change my mind,'' Prada said. The show, like others, was broadcast on a maxi-screen in the heart of Milan's shopping district. But with the city and region around it plunged into yet another partial lockdown on Sunday, the previews attracted little notice. What energy was missing from the streets of Milan was recouped on social media. Fendi, Etro and outdoor brand Kway intended physical shows with guests, but had to scale back to closed-door runways. Dolce&Gabbana canceled, saying the restrictions in place wouldn't have allowed the necessary conditions for them to show. Fendi's collection, designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, featured quilted pieces made for easy layering, in the spirit of comfort and cocooning. Etro's paisley took on a casual flair, in silky tops or baggy trousers paired with crossbody bags and baseball caps. Kway's rain slickers, trenches and parkas got their fashion cred from streaks bright color and varied silhouettes. Now, more than ever, as people have more time at home to consider how they want to present themselves to the world, fashion is less about trends, and more about individuality. "Everybody should follow themselves," Prada said. "That for me is crucial, and fundamental. Clothes are an expression of your idea, of your personality … The clothes are at the service of your life, of the person." Suggest a Correction

'Hate-wear' and 'sadwear': fashion's new names for lockdown dressing - The Guardian Posted: 17 Jan 2021 08:37 PM PST With online sales booming but retail in sharp decline, the pandemic has changed shopping for ever. Practical, comfortable items suitable for a lifestyle of working from home and occasional trips outside – such as Ugg boots, Crocs and trousers with elasticated waistbands – have seen rising sales. But with many of us grappling with our emotions during lockdown, the way we feel and speak about our clothes has altered too. Last week, two new words were coined to describe our new attitude to fashion; portmanteaus that articulate the stresses and mundanity of lockdown, but also the changing relationship we have with our clothes. The New York Times's "hate-wear" refers to clothes that are "neither stylish nor particularly comfortable, yet constantly in rotation", items worn for their utility rather than their style. "Not knowing how to dress is the least of anyone's problems," says the NYT writer Reyhan Harmanci, "but we still do (mostly) have to put on clothes. For those of us who now work from home, that has resulted in some weird choices." Is Matt Hancock's zip-up top 'a symbol of stress and sadness'? Photograph: Dominic Lipisnki/EPA Examples in the article include a sweater with holes in, jogging bottoms in the wrong size and a jumper worn so regularly it "suddenly became a symbol of stress and sadness". You could argue that Nancy Pelosi wearing the exact same dress for Trump's second impeachment vote or Matt Hancock's zipped, gilet-like top, worn during visits to Covid vaccination centres, were sartorial symbols of "stress and sadness". Esquire, meanwhile, came up with the term "sadwear", "our collective term for clothes that make us feel better when we're sad, specifically born out of the existential ennui of lockdown", according to Charlie Teasdale, the magazine's style director. The list of "comfort-blanket" clothing included pyjamas, hoodies and, of course, jogging bottoms (ideally with a matching hoodie). But it could, equally, encompass something unexpected or luxurious, depending on how it makes the wearer feel. Celebrities mirrored this trend, with Harry Styles being photographed in a dressing gown (Marks & Spencer reported a fivefold increase in nightwear sales over the pandemic period), Justin Bieber in an ill-fitting sweatshirt and Jared Leto in a beanie. "It might be a stupid hat or novelty jumper or even a pair of joggers that feel great, but are laughably unflattering," said Teasdale. According to Teasdale, these words are part of a new lexicon, articulating the "various sartorial sticking plasters people can employ to alleviate the gloom." He concedes, though, that sadwear "could never really compete with succour of a night at the pub".

Six fashion podcasts to seek this week - Financial Times Posted: 18 Jan 2021 02:55 AM PST Chanel Connects The latest audio offering from fashion's most esteemed maison launched last week with seven episodes, each featuring a conversation between creatives. Musician Pharrell Williams and stage designer Es Devlin discuss technology and the need to elevate black entrepreneurs; Tilda Swinton, Edward Enninful and National Portrait Gallery director Nicholas Cullinan debate the nature of celebrity and the future of cinema; artist Arthur Jafa, painter Jennifer Packer and curator Hans Ulrich Obrist examine the meaning of success, while Keira Knightley, Lulu Wang and Diane Solway talk comedy and the need for strong women on both sides of the camera. Expect future musings on the future of the creative industries and candid reflections on the past year, all set against an uplifting jazzy soundtrack by Bakar. Chanel Connects is available on the Chanel podcast 3.55 through Spotify, Apple and chanel.com The Cutting Room Floor Hosted by designer Recho Omondi, The Cutting Room Floor is a no-holds-barred, honest examination of the fashion industry, from an insider's perspective. Who's initiating real change for racial equality in the industry? What does Vogue really believe in? What happens to our clothes when we throw them away? Omondi unpicks these important questions with the help of esteemed guests such as former Wall Street Journal fashion reporter Teri Agins; Tony Liu and Lindsey Schuyler, the duo behind irreverent fashion Instagram account Diet Prada; and writer and editor Lynette Nylander. The Cutting Room Floor is available on Spotify and Apple podcasts Gucci's podcast spotlights the creatives at the heart of the brand's collaborations Gucci Podcast Gucci is well known for its collaborations. This podcast from the Italian fashion house spotlights the creatives at the heart of the brand's collabs. Recent episodes have seen soul musician Curtis Harding discuss her 'Gucci Gig' with art critic Antwaun Sargent, artist and director Jenn Nkiru talk about her recent project for the "Second Summer of Love" film series hosted by Gucci and Frieze, and singer Florence Welch discuss her new poetry book, which features a cover designed by Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele. Gucci Podcast is available on Spotify and Apple Podcasts and Soundcloud The Business of Fashion Podcast For industry insights, The Business of Fashion podcast is an invaluable source. Lately, show host and BoF founder and CEO Imran Amed has been looking at how Joe Biden's presidency will affect the fashion industry, whether Covid will be the end of experiential retail, and how the budding fashion industry in Lebanon is recovering from the blast that devastated Beirut last August. His guests have included Dries Van Noten, Vogue Italia editor-in-chief Emanuele Farneti and photographer Tyler Mitchell. The Business of Fashion Podcast is available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Stitcher and Business of Fashion Desert Island Discs Peppered through the extensive archives of Desert Island Discs (episodes go all the way back to 1942) these are some of the best standalone interviews with fashion industry insiders – and frequently a source of unexpected gossip and delight. Stand-out episodes find Vivienne Westwood revealing her love of classical music, Celia Birtwell explaining why she wants Elton John and Handel on her desert island, and disability rights activist and fashion writer Sinead Burke opt for Lizzo, Madonna's "Vogue" and Nina Simone's "I Put a Spell on You". Episodes with sustainable fashion pioneer Stella McCartney, fashion journalist Felicity Green, makeup artist Pat McGrath, and designer Zandra Rhodes are also well worth a listen. Desert Island Discs is available on Spotify and Apple podcasts and on bbc.co.uk And for something a little different... Audemars Piguet's 180 film series challenged up-and-coming artists to create a musical soundtrack Audemars Piguet 180 For 180 (after the 180 seconds which make up the average length of a song), the new miniseries of music-centred films from haute watchmaker Audemars Piguet, five groups of up-and-coming artists were set a challenge to create one soundtrack which blended their styles. The first episode followed the story of French model Cindy Bruna and the electronic artist Tchako as they created an ethereal dance track overlaid with Bruna reciting spoken-word poetry. The newest episode sees Canadian pop singer Betta Lemme collaborate with hip hop group THe Lyonz. "I thought it would be interesting to put two total strangers, two artists in a room and see what they came up with, like a fascinating social experiment, if you will," Lemme said of the experience. "And that's exactly what it was". Audemars Piguet 180 is available at audemarspiguet.com

Fashion Leaves the Trump Years Behind | The Week Ahead, BoF Professional | BoF - The Business of Fashion Posted: 17 Jan 2021 05:30 AM PST THE CHEAT SHEET Washington Takes a 180-Degree Turn Joe Biden will be inaugurated on Jan. 20 | Source: Getty Joe Biden will become the 46th President of the United States on Jan. 20 Washington, DC is bracing for potentially violent action by Trump supporters following the Jan. 6 riot at the US Capitol The fashion industry wants Biden to move fast on economic stimulus When Joe Biden recites the oath of office before a heavily guarded, pandemic-limited crowd on Wednesday, it will hopefully put an end to a tense, sometimes violent chapter in American politics. Many in fashion, too, are hoping for a return to some sort of pre-2016 status quo, before the Muslim travel bans, trade wars and Proud Boys rallies. In some small ways, that's likely to happen: after four years of giving the Trump administration a wide berth, designers will once again be angling to get their dresses and suits onto DC power players for state dinners and other events (once such things are possible again). But when it comes to more substantive issues, the outlook is less certain. The Jan. 6 riots may offer a preview of tensions and outbursts of violence to come. Brands, which played an active role in the culture wars of the Trump years, with mixed results, may find themselves back on the front lines again. The fight against police brutality and racial injustice won't end, even if activists are likely to find a more sympathetic administration in the White House. And though a TikTok ban is no longer on the table, tensions with China haven't gone anywhere, nor have Trump's tariffs (though French luxury brands appear to be off the hook). Biden's reentry into the Paris Climate Accord, which could happen in the opening days, if not hours, of his presidency, would be welcome news to many in the industry, though it means there will be more pressure on big brands to actually meet ambitious emissions targets. The Bottom Line: Perhaps the most consequential development in the first days of the Biden administration will be a proposed $1.9 trillion Covid-19 relief bill. The package, which only became possible when Democrats unexpectedly gained control of the Senate earlier this month, will send quite a bit of cash to consumers and struggling businesses. That, along with Biden's vaccination strategy, could determine the future of countless fashion brands, manufacturers and service providers. Another Chat With Miuccia and Raf Raf Simons in conversation with Miuccia Prada after the Prada Spring/Summer 2021 show in Milan | Source: Courtesy Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons will answer questions from university students after their Jan. 17 men's show, an extension of the brand's Spring/Summer 2021 campaign Prada and Simons staged a live conversation guided by fan-submitted questions ahead of their first show as a design team in September Milan men's fashion week runs through Jan. 19, while Paris men's shows span Jan. 19-24 Prada really wants to hear what you have to say. After soliciting questions in a publicity blitz that included a full-page ad in The New York Times in September, the brand embarked on a series of "dialogues," where it posed philosophical questions in ads for fans of the brand to answer. It's not hard to grasp the impetus for this campaign — when two legendary designers join forces, every collection is a dialogue on some level. After their debut show in September, the designers expressed a desire to tap the "collective unconscious," and Simons told the Times last week that "no matter how much both of us like the idea that the clothes should speak for themselves, it's not enough." Still, it remains to be seen how responses to such queries as, "Do you ever feel like a machine?" will be translated into clothing. The first Simons-era collection has yet to hit stores, but Prada is starting the year in a good place. An early-January business update indicated sales had fully recovered from their mid-pandemic dip by December, and a shift away from wholesale was helping to boost profits. With 90 percent of sales now coming from direct channels, Prada is in a position to tell its own brand story. The Bottom Line: Prada's attempts to spark online dialogue are a smart move at a time when most of its customers are stuck at home and shopping via their smartphones. SUNDAY READING Professional Exclusives You May Have Missed: There's no magic bullet to tapping China's 750 million consumers. What brands are prioritising when it comes to sustainability in 2021. The future of the fur industry. A guide to fashion's upcoming IPOs. Data alone won't save fashion. The Week Ahead wants to hear from you! Send tips, suggestions, complaints and compliments to brian.baskin@businessoffashion.com. Was this BoF Professional email forwarded to you? Join BoF Professional to get access to the exclusive insight and analysis that keeps you ahead of the competition. Subscribe to BoF Professional here.

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