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Mexico targets global fashion houses for using indigenous patterns - MercoPress
Mexico targets global fashion houses for using indigenous patterns - MercoPress |
- Mexico targets global fashion houses for using indigenous patterns - MercoPress
- Polyester is one of the biggest polluters in fashion — here’s what one CEO wants to do about it - CNBC
- Naperville Memorial Day parade returns in scaled-back fashion - WGN TV Chicago
- WWD Australian Fashion Week's Smoking Hot Opener - WWD
- ‘Big Three’ scores 104 points to defeat Celtics in historic fashion, take 3-1 series lead, 141-126 - NetsDaily
| Mexico targets global fashion houses for using indigenous patterns - MercoPress Posted: 31 May 2021 02:00 AM PDT Mexico targets global fashion houses for using indigenous patterns Mexico's Culture Minister Alejandra Frausto sent letters to all three global companies, asking each for a "public explanation on what basis it could privatize collective property".Mexico has targeted leading international fashion brands Zara, Anthropologie, and Patowl claiming they have taken advantage of the indigenous textile heritage of the country. In effect according to official complaints, these designers used patterns from indigenous Mexican groups in their designs without any benefit to the communities. Mexico's Ministry of Culture said in a statement that it had sent letters signed by Mexico's Culture Minister Alejandra Frausto to all three global companies, asking each for a "public explanation on what basis it could privatize collective property". The Ministry of Culture says Zara, owned by Iniditex, the world's largest clothing retailer used a pattern distinctive to the indigenous Mixteca community of San Juan Colorado in the southern state of Oaxaca. Anthropologie, owned by URBN, used a design developed by the indigenous Mixe community of Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec, while Patowl copied a pattern from the indigenous Zapoteco community in San Antonino Castillo Velasco, both in the state of Oaxaca, according to the Ministry of Culture. The extent to which fashion designers have profited from incorporating cultural designs without acknowledging their origins or fairly compensating communities has been a point of contention in recent years. In 2019, the Mexican government accused fashion house Carolina Herrera of cultural appropriation of indigenous patterns and textiles from Mexico in its collection.  |
| Posted: 30 May 2021 04:22 PM PDT  Fashion has a polyester problem. It's the most widely-used clothing fiber in the world, but as a synthetic material made from plastic, polyester needs a lot of energy to produce and is highly water and air polluting, according to the Council of Fashion Designers of America. The fashion industry is trying to tackle the issue, but there's no simple solution, according to the CEO of one of the world's largest clothes manufacturers. "There isn't so far (a) raw material that is as cheap and as versatile as polyester today," said Roger Lee, who runs Hong-Kong headquartered TAL Apparel. As well as being inexpensive, polyester doesn't crease and can be washed at low temperatures. However, the laundry process also releases tiny fibers known as microplastics, which can be harmful to marine life. While polyester lasts for years, longevity is a double-edged sword — clothes can be worn many times but will likely end up in landfill, and don't biodegrade. "Today, we rarely use virgin polyester," Lee told CNBC's "Managing Asia: Sustainable Future." "What do I mean by that? Quite often, our polyacetal (fiber) that we use are actually from recycled bottles." Over the past two years, Lee said there has been a huge acceleration in the use of recycled plastics in fashion. "The reason is because the cost of using that has come down to the same price as using virgin polyester. And that's the key — if the price is the same … (it's) a no-brainer. It saves environments (and has) the same commercial costs." TAL Apparel manufactures clothing for brands including Burberry, J Crew and Patagonia and was founded by the Lee family who started in the fashion business with a cotton cloth shop in 1856. The firm was revived by Lee's great uncle C.C. in 1947.
At the moment, only about 14% of polyester is produced from recycled fibers, according to standards body Textile Exchange. How close to a breakthrough is the sector in terms of recycling used garments? "If you talk about pure polyester, yes, we are close. But the problem is a lot of materials are mixed materials, it's a polyester blend with something else. And separating that has been an issue," Lee explained. TAL is involved with the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel which is investigating new ways to make the fashion industry more sustainable. In November, the institute launched a "Green Machine," developed with the H&M Foundation, which can separate mixed materials. The new machine works by decomposing the cotton part of the material and extracting the polyester, which can then be spun into garments. Preventing clothes going to landfill, or encouraging people to buy less, could go some way to addressing an excess of polyester garments — and that means looking at the fundamentals of the fashion industry. Custom clothingBrands currently "guess" how many pieces of each style they are going to produce, Lee said, and making the clothes takes three to six months before they are sent to stores or put online. What doesn't get sold at full price is marked down. "When it's so cheap, or 70% off, (people think) I don't really need it, but you know what 70% is worth it, (so) I'm going to get that. And then you buy stuff you don't really need," Lee said. One solution is to make clothes that are made-to-measure, which TAL has been doing for 15 years. "In the last few years, it's really taken off … you walk into the store, the garment is not there ready for you. But you say you know what, I like this fabric, I like in this style, you place the order and the shirt for example, in seven days, you will get it at your doorstep," Lee explained. Before the coronavirus pandemic, TAL made around 600,000 dress shirts a year in this way. While making made-to-measure clothes is currently more expensive than producing them in bulk, that could change in the long term. "You don't need (a) warehouse to store (garments) … you don't need big stores to sell … But big brands that have a lot of brick-and-mortar can't get rid of those overnight, so it doesn't make sense," Lee said. "What's capturing the market are the up-and-coming people … we need more people to think about that way," he added. In December, Amazon launched custom T-shirt service Made For You in the U.S., while San Francisco-based Unspun sells custom-fit denim. "Brands have to be committed to say: I'm going to eliminate this raw material polyester, for example, from my supply chain in five to 10 years' time, forcing people to find alternative ways, which are more sustainable. It is the brands' CEOs' responsibility to do that," Lee said. He also called for the industry to work together. "Our industry is highly competitive (and) sharing secrets about how we do things will give one company advantage over another," Lee said. "But CEOs need to say: OK, what's more important ... a profit now or ... a planet in the future. And I think planet in the future." — CNBC's Karen Gilchrist contributed to this report.  |
| Naperville Memorial Day parade returns in scaled-back fashion - WGN TV Chicago Posted: 31 May 2021 03:52 AM PDT  NAPERVILLE, Ill. — Following a 2020 cancellation due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the Naperville Memorial Day parade returns in a scaled-back fashion in 2021. The parade is slated to begin from the VFW post in Naperville, but will not be the same event that patrons are used to seeing from parades in years past. Marching bands present at the parade will be stationary, with patrons being required to watch the parade from the south side of Jackson Avenue, parallel to the river. The marchers of the parade will head to the dandelion fountain on the Riverwalk for a 21 gun salute. The event works to remind Naperville's residents of the significance of the holiday, with the city of Naperville having lost 114 people who died while on active duty. Suggest a Correction |
| WWD Australian Fashion Week's Smoking Hot Opener - WWD Posted: 30 May 2021 07:09 AM PDT SYDNEY — Thanks to a sudden COVID-19 flare-up and snap lockdown in Melbourne last week, the first thing greeting Afterpay Australian Fashion Week delegates as they arrive at Sydney's Carriageworks venue on Monday morning will be a mandatory temperature check. The next order of business will be a 60,000-year-old Indigenous smoking ceremony — a first for the event. Performed inside a fluorescent pink sand circle by members of the Muggera Dance Company, holding branches of smoldering eucalyptus leaves, Monday morning's "Welcome to Country" will be accompanied by words from local Traditional Owner Matthew Doyle to welcome the delegation to Gadigal Country; Indigenous MC Jarron Andy; a didgeridoo player, and four new Indigenous modeling faces who have been signed to IMG Models over the past 12 months, the latter wearing Indigenous-designed pieces from the upcoming Eucalyptusdom exhibition at Sydney's Powerhouse Museum. Welcome to Country was practiced in Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander communities for thousands of years before British settlement in 1788, as a traditional protocol via which one Indigenous people sought permission to enter another people's land. The performance has been produced and curated by First Nations Fashion and Design, a national voice representing Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander creatives. It will kick off AAFW's resort 2022 collections showcase, which will feature 97 Australian and New Zealand fashion brands — almost 90 percent of which are presenting physical shows. They include over one dozen Indigenous designers in two separate runway showcases and via both on-site and virtual showrooms, the latter in partnership with Ordre.com. The AAFW: The Talks program also includes a panel discussion on the burgeoning First Nations fashion sector. Canceled last year due to COVID-19, this year's event was pushed back by several weeks from its usual time slot to allow designers still recovering from the pandemic to prepare their collections. By pure coincidence, the event falls this year on National Reconciliation Week, an annual celebration of Australian Indigenous history and culture, which aims to foster reconciliation discussions with Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples, who account for 3.3 percent of Australia's population of 25 million. "It's like the ancestors planned it for us without us even thinking" FNFD's chief executive officer Teagan Cowlishaw told WWD at Sunday's Welcome to Country rehearsal, of the coincidental timing of the two events. She added, "You couldn't have timed it any better, it's just a beautiful fusion."  |
| Posted: 30 May 2021 06:53 PM PDT It was a historic performance from the Nets and their "Big Three" Sunday that silenced a sellout TD Garden. Although marred late by yet another incident of bad fan behavior, the Nets' trio of future Hall of Famers put on a virtuoso performance. On a night when TD Garden opened its doors to welcome the Celtics' first sellout crowd of the year — 17,226 fans — Brooklyn's "Big Three" served as silencers, combining for 104 points to lift the Nets past the Celtics, 141-104. The 141 points is a new franchise playoff record. Moreover, Brooklyn had a staggering shooting split of 57/59/97. With the win, the Nets take a 3-1 series lead and are one win away from advancing to the second round where they will face the Milwaukee Bucks. "We met more actions. We were still terrific in isolation, but we ran more actions, got more people involved, had a lot more assists and a lot more balance. Clearly, we had a great shooting night as well," said Nash on the Nets offense in the Game 4 win. Kevin Durant — who like Kyrie Irving, was greeted by a cascade of boos raining from the stands — led the Nets with 42 points on 14-of-20 shooting from the field and 3-of-3 from behind the arc. Aside from shredding Boston's defense, the Nets superstar contributed four rebounds and five assists in 40 minutes of play. Irving had a bounce-back performance in front of his former fans in a big way. Irving finished his special night with 39 points, 11 rebounds and two assists on 11-of-24 shooting from the field and 6-of-12 from three in 41 minutes of play. "It's Kyrie Irving. He didn't have a great game last time out. My money's on him anytime after a performance like he had where he couldn't quite get into the game in game 3. I had a good feeling about him tonight and he was outstanding," said Nash on Irving's performance. "I just loved his will to take some of this adversity and have a great game. He was terrific." James Harden — who was coming off a team-high 41-point performance in the Game 3 loss — had a ridiculous stat line serving as the facilitator. The former MVP recorded a double-double of 23 points and 18 assists to go with five rebounds in 40 minutes of play. The 18 assists were the most he ever recorded in a game, regular season or post-season. "I thought he was terrific. His vision is outstanding and his ability to find guys out of the pick-and-roll or when they doubled was great," the Nets head coach said on Harden's facilitating. "It was fun to watch and when he's able to pick the gym apart like that is really special." Brooklyn became the second team in NBA history to have multiple 35-point scorers in consecutive games and the trio became the second to score 35+ points in the same playoff game in Nets history. Other than the prestigious trio, Bruce Brown — who Nash said played "really good" — provided Brooklyn with a good punch off the bench with 14 points and seven rebounds followed by Joe Harris with 14 points on 5-of-9 shooting from the field and 4-of-5 from deep. Nicolas Claxton played very well defensively, recording a career-high four blocks in only eight minutes of play. Brooklyn didn't play their young big for the entirety of the second half. "Nic had four blocks in eight minutes. He was a +14. It was much better and I thought he was really active and disruptive. He was really positive for us tonight, so hopefully, it's something he can build on," said Nash on Claxton's performance off the bench. For Boston, Jayson Tatum had another great offensive performance of 40 points on 10-of-22 shooting overall and 3-of-7 from three to go with seven rebounds and five assists followed by Evan Fournier with 16 points in 28 minutes of play. The Celtics finished the loss with six players in double-figures. "We try to take those guys [Evan Fournier] [Marcus Smart] out. We know once they get it going, their team can change and become high-powered. Tatum, he's going to get his looks and get his touches, but the other guys we did a solid job on," said Durant on the biggest adjustment from Game 3. The Celtics came out with sharpness in their decision-making while restricting space on the defensive end for Brooklyn. Boston opened up the contest shooting 50.0 percent shooting from both the field and from three behind the play of Tatum and Smart to hold an early 21-15 lead with 6:06 remaining. Meanwhile, Brooklyn missed their first three threes and Durant looked comfortable in the mid-range scoring six of the Nets' first 15 points. Brooklyn did a majority of their damage from the charity strike — shooting a season-high 14 free throws and going a perfect 14-of-14 in the frame. Irving led the damage with seven points on seven free throw attempts to end the first with 12 points. While Griffin struggled early defensively, Claxton provided the Nets with some strong minutes, immediately making an impact defensive, swatting two shots and altering a pair of shots. The high scoring first ended with a 34-33 Celtics lead with Tatum scoring 14 points and shooting 7-of-7 from the charity strike. For Brooklyn, Durant paved the way with 17 points — tied for the most points scored in the first quarter of a playoff game in his career — followed by Irving with 12 while the team shot 45.0 percent from the field and 1-of-4 from three. Brooklyn opened the second quarter hot and moving the ball, growing their largest lead — 45-37 lead and after a thunderous Harden slam off a nifty bounce pass from Harris and a 20-foot jumper by Johnson, Boston called a timeout to regroup. And then it got scary. Brooklyn upped their physicality in the second and their defensive effort converted into high-quality offense to silence the packed TD Garden crowd and steal the momentum. The Nets opened the frame hitting 10 of their first 12 shots and running the offense through the 'Big Three' — who combined for 59 of the Nets' 73 first-half points. To make things sweeter, the history books followed. The Nets put together their second 40-point quarter of the series and their 13-point halftime lead (73-60) marked the largest lead at the break in the postseason since Game 1 of the Eastern Conference Finals against the Miami Heat in May of 2006 and the 73 first-half points tied a record for most points scored in any half in their postseason history with Game 3 of a first-round series with the Bucks in April of 1986. Brooklyn's offensive clinic continued to flow to start the second half while the Celtics continued to unravel. The Nets capitalized in the early offense to go along with their hot shooting and their perfect consistency from the charity strike. After a surprising Irving put-back slam off a Griffin miss, Brooklyn ballooned their lead to 20 points with 7:10 remaining in the third. Brooklyn went on to score their 100th point with 4:04 remaining in the third, marking the second time in this series (Game 2) and in their postseason history, the team has hit the 100-point marker through three quarters, growing their lead to 103-77 with 3:40 remaining off a 27-foot three from Irving off a kick-out pass from Brown. The Celtics did gain some momentum after a devastating defensive performance throughout the third, hitting two threes, but the Nets hit the final 12 minutes of play boasting a 112-91 lead — 112 point a new franchise record through three-quarters — tied for the largest lead through three quarters on the road in postseason franchise history. Brooklyn began the fourth staggering the 'Big Three's' minutes in the fourth quarter and after nursing a double-digit lead entering the final minute of play, Nash pulled his trio from the floor, leaving Chris Chiozza, Johnson, Mike James, Timothe Luwawu-Cabarrot and Landry Shamet to finish the contest. "A part of it was because it was kind of sloppy at that point and they were starting to score, so we didn't want to take any chances. Also, those guys didn't want to come out so we let them go a few more minutes," said Nash on leaving the 'Big Three' in late in the fourth quarter. The Film RoomHere's a fun fact: Prior to Sunday's game, the Brooklyn Nets were 13th out of 16 playoff teams in points in the paint with just 38.7 per game. In Game 4, they recorded 26 in the first half. That's what fueled the run; easy downhill touches. Getting to the rim was always going to be the question for Kevin Durant. We knew he was going to be a dangerous threat off the catch. We felt confident that he'd be able to connect on midrange pull-ups should he get run off the line. Heck, most of us even felt good about his post-up play and elite hesitation face-up game. Driving to the rim was always the big question for Kevin Durant after an Achillies tear, especially in the postseason. He's answered that question. Thoroughly. He's parlayed that rim dominance into runners, floaters, and just absolutely nutty off-the-glass shots like the one below that should not be coming off the fingertips of a seven-footer with such ease. One of a kind. His former OKC teammate and currently Scary Hour troika member James Harden has also shown tenacity off the bounce after displaying a little bit of sluggishness in the first two games of the series against Boston. Here, he just flat-out beats Tristan Thompson to the spot after the Celtic big man plays close to the level of the screen to contain Harden's pull-up shooting gravity. And then, of course, the biggest difference between Games 3 and 4, Kyrie Irving, who lit up the Celtics with revenge shots galore. Here's the man himself getting to the cup after using Blake Griffin's screen for the bouncy layup. The Nets were in need of a "prove it" performance after a dismal Game 3. Give them credit. They did it. Milestone WatchIt's getting harder to keep track of the milestones the Nets set with each post-season game, but let's try, with the help of Nets PR, ESPN Stats and Statsmuse.
—KD 35/8/3 on 56/46/91% —Harden 26/7/11 on 55/46/91% —Kyrie 25/7/3 on 47/38/100%
Tsai in the house?The Nets didn't respond when asked, but we think we caught a glimpse of Joe Tsai and members of his family under the Nets basket in the first half. Tsai had not been in attendance before Game 4 but his wife, Clara Wu Tsai, Nets co-owner, has been courtside for the Nets playoff games and Liberty regular season games at Barclays. As Sponge Bob might say...:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22550326/0F50E388_2FA9_4585_9917_DE2DB465328D__2_.jpeg) Per Will Hanley. What's nextThe Nets will return to Brooklyn and play Game 5 on Tuesday, June 1. The game is scheduled to tip at 7:30 PM ET and will air live on WPIX-TV and will also be streamed live on the YES Network App. For a different perspective, check out CelticsBlog - our sister site covering the Celtics.
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