2020's biggest fashion trends reflect a world in crisis - CNN

2020's biggest fashion trends reflect a world in crisis - CNN
Defining Moments in Women's Fashion 2020 [PHOTOS] - WWD
Pierre Cardin, Acclaimed Fashion Designer for the Space Age, Dies at 98 - Hollywood Reporter
15 Shirt Jackets For Women: The Shacket Trend Taking Over - STYLECASTER

Posted: 30 Dec 2020 02:57 AM PST

Written by Fiona Sinclair Scott, CNN

To look back at the year in fashion is to look back at a year of crisis. In the first few months of 2020, as the severity and scale of the coronavirus pandemic became clear, businesses around the world faced incomparable challenges posed by the largest global public health crisis in generations. The fashion industry was not immune.

Making clothes became extremely difficult, and many of us -- forced to stay at home amid job insecurity and health concerns -- lost our appetite for buying them.

A recent report by consulting firm McKinsey and The Business of Fashion showed that fashion sales in China dropped significantly at the beginning of the year, while in Europe and the US they fell off a cliff edge in March. The same report predicted that fashion companies' year-on-year profits will decline by approximately 90 percent for 2020, following a 4% rise the year before.

But the pandemic wasn't the only crisis the industry faced. While the fashion world was already reckoning with uncomfortable truths about its impact and practices -- from its role in the climate crisis and poor working conditions for garment factory workers, to its failure to create inclusive, diverse workplaces -- the events of 2020 have only served to further highlight these problems.

Suddenly, fashion had to find its place in a world ill-at-ease with the ideas of fantasy, frivolity and indulgence that it has long depended on.

Dita von Teese walks the runway during a Jean Paul Gaultier show in January, shortly before the Covid-19 pandemic brought physical fashion shows to a halt around the world. Credit: Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images

For Shefalee Vasudev, founding editor of India's Voice of Fashion magazine, this year has heralded "the great unmasking" of fashion. "The unseen other side of what we bring back home as a beautiful garment or product was revealed," she wrote via email from Delhi. "Migrants walking back to their homes in villages, disowned as they were by the cities and their employers, was among the most poignant images that surfaced from India."

Vasudev, who authored "Powder Room: The Untold Story of Indian Fashion," pointed to "poorly paid laborers, unequal profits and (lack of) copyright credits to artisans," as some of the most pressing issues laid bare by the pandemic in India. Meanwhile in the United States, and then countries around the world, the resurgence of the Black Lives Matter movement put the issue of systemic racism firmly on the industry's agenda. Brands awkwardly grappled with how to respond. Many got it wrong and were quickly called out for making token gestures.

A protester holds up a sign during a Black Lives Matter protest in front of the US Embassy in Vienna, Austria on June 5, 2020. Credit: Thomas Kronsteiner/Getty Images Europe/Getty Images

"Plain and simple, I don't think there is the intention behind (online gestures) to make long-lasting, sustainable change," said Teen Vogue editor-in-chief, Lindsay Peoples Wagner, in an email to CNN in June. "Everyone can hop onto the BLM movement right now on social media, but what are you doing in your home, in your corporate office, with your connections, with the power you have?"

Months later, Wagner launched the Black in Fashion Council (with publicist Sandrine Charles) to drive better representation, advance opportunities for Black people in fashion and hold the industry accountable.

Writing from Nigeria, a country that experienced its own set of crises this year, Omoyemi Akerele, founder of Lagos Fashion Week, said along with the coronavirus pandemic, "civil unrest across African countries and the pandemic of racism, have been human disasters of epic proportions with countless lives lost, reminding us of the one thread that binds us all together: our humanity."

To talk about fashion trends following a year defined by crisis may seem nugatory, but the themes that emerged offer a window into these extraordinary times.

Read on for one last look at fashion around the world in 2020.

Functionality

Face masks became the unrivaled accessory of the year. People made their own, brands produced unique designs and, almost overnight, they became the finishing touch to many outfits.

A face mask by Burberry Credit: Courtesy Burberry

Some labels went a step further by marketing new accessories -- and in some cases, entire clothing lines -- as having antimicrobial properties. While experts say it is difficult to assess whether antimicrobial treatments can protect wearers from Covid-19, the concept of protective fashion is itself a defining trend. We also saw high-fashion riffs on the idea, including Kenzo's fetching beekeeper-inspired looks presented during Paris Fashion Week in September.

Comfort

Fashion platform Lyst looked at search data from over 100 million online shoppers and, in its annual report, found that Birkenstock clogs, Crocs, UGG slippers and Nike joggers were among the year's most sought-after items of clothing.

Anna Wintour shocked the fashion when Vogue posted a photo of her wearing sweatpants to Instagram. Credit: From Vogue Magazine/Instagram

Reflecting a shift in both reality and mindset, loungewear replaced office attire, and floaty "house dresses" -- comfortable enough to take you from home office to daybed -- rose in popularity. The term "cottagecore," an internet trend encapsulating the spirit of cozy, rustic living, generated huge buzz as TikTok users showed off their attempts to channel the aesthetic at home.

Pop culture, of course, helped underscore these trends. BTS' music video for "Life Goes On" showed the boyband in matching pajamas, playing video games and staring wistfully out of windows. Oh, to be a young, rich, self-isolating idol.

From Big Hit Labels/YouTube

Statements

Statement-wear took on an entirely new meaning in 2020. From protest T-shirts in support of the Black Lives Matter movement to political merchandise in the lead up to the US election, people dressed not to impress, but to convey powerful messages.

A protestor wears a T-shirt reading "I can't breathe" during a Black Lives Matter rally in Marseille, France. Credit: Clement Mahoude/AFP/Getty Images

According to Lyst data, searches for terms including "vote" were up 29% week-on-week in the US the month before the presidential election. And when When Michelle Obama wore her now famous "VOTE" necklace, designed by Chari Cuthbert, demand for the item skyrocketed.

Pre-election, Instagram was awash with celebrities posting selfies in hot pink power suits thanks to a campaign launched by workwear brand Argent and advocacy group Supermajority, encouraging women to exercise their voting power and further bolstering the power of pink to signal strength and female solidarity.

Whether intentional or not, Savannah Guthrie's choice of pink suit (not by Argent) to interview President Trump during the NBC town hall did not go unnoticed.

Savannah Guthrie pictured during an NBC News town hall event in October 2020. Credit: Evan Vucci/AP

Conscious

Growing demand for local, handmade, sustainable clothing isn't a new trend. But the pandemic saw a rise in values-driven shopping, reflecting a shift in mindset among more prudent spenders, who, perhaps, also had more time to think about the brands they lent their loyalty to.

In a report issued in April, Lyst noted a 69% increase in searches for "vegan leather," year-on-year.

In Nigeria, Akerele said that sourcing materials internationally became challenging, so designers and the wider community were incentivized to build more vertically integrated businesses. This, she said, reduced the industry's carbon footprint: "It's helped reduce waste in the system in a way that only sourcing locally on demand can; and empowered our community of artisans, craftsmen and local supply chains by generating income for them in the midst of inflation."

Vasudev said that, in India, she noticed two shifts in behavior, both benefiting local artisans: "One was the overwhelming response to artisans selling directly online (aided of course by NGOs and crafts collectives). Two, a number of artisan funds and charities went up," she said. "Indian consumers went out of their way to support the 'karigars' (artisans). By buying, donating, by prioritizing Made in India."

Digital

From Shanghai to London, fashion weeks throughout the year went digital to present new collections safely. During London Fashion Week in September, Burberry streamed its show -- filmed live in the woods -- on Twitch, a social media platform more popular with gamers than fashionistas. Later that month in Milan, Moschino creative director Jeremy Scott swapped models for marionettes, cleverly presenting a micro-sized version of his collection in a video that embraced the absurdity of the moment.

Fashion designer stages show with puppets

Months before in May, Congolese designer Anifa Mvuemba, founder of the label Hanifa, streamed a mesmerizing 3D collection of her latest designs on invisible models. The innovative idea went viral, racking up millions of views on Instagram.

While e-commerce has been growing in popularity for years, the luxury fashion sector has, historically, been slow to embrace its digital future. The industry's common gripes are about the loss of the physical luxury experiences like walking into a beautifully designed store, flipping through the pages of a glossy magazine or attending exclusive fashion shows.

While these attitudes were slowly changing before the pandemic, this year has drastically accelerated the shift to online. According to the aforementioned McKinsey report, we have "vaulted five years forward in consumer and business adoption of digital in a matter of months."

Grégory Boutté, chief client and digital officer for Kering (which owns Gucci and Saint Laurent, among other brands), spoke to the Business of Fashion in December, telling the title: "Our e-commerce revenue during the first half of 2020 went from 6 percent to 13 percent of overall retail revenues year-over-year. In North America we were as high as 26 percent e-commerce -- so already ahead of the 20 percent McKinsey expected for 2025." He noted that he expects these gains to normalize, given these numbers reflect the fact that the businesses brick-and-mortar stores were closed for large parts of the year, leaving buyers with no option but to shop online.

The future

Fashion's recovery from the pandemic is set to be slow, with experts predicting a difficult year ahead for businesses. Trends seen during a year defined by crisis will not be left at 2021's door, and they may permanently change the shape of the industry.

Some of these changes are positive and, when it comes to questions of inclusion and sustainability, long overdue. This year may have also accelerated fashion's compulsion to look ahead in search of a brighter future. This is, after all, an industry filled with dreamers.

Louis Vuitton Spring-Summer 2021 collection presented in Shanghai Credit: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Bohan Qiu, founder of Shanghai-based creative and communication agency Boh Project, said he can already see more exuberant fashion displays emerging in China as the country returns to some semblance of normalcy. "I feel like people are actually going more vibrant, more experimental, more interesting rather than going more conservative," he said via voice message. "And you can really see on the streets or at parties or at events in China, or at shopping malls, all the brands are displaying really colorful patterns, prints and embellishments. I feel like that's really coming back, it's like we're celebrating."

Defining Moments in Women's Fashion 2020 [PHOTOS] - WWD

Posted: 30 Dec 2020 09:05 PM PST

2020's best fashion moments came via the virtual Emmy Awards, recycled gowns, a highly publicized mullet and an empty front row. Masks were put front and center, as seen via Naomi Osaka and Lady Gaga, while vintage Mugler and Alaïa were showstoppers yet again thanks to fashion breakout Dua Lipa. And royal fashion was ever present. Here, the most defining moments off screen in women's fashion 2020.

Pierre Cardin, Acclaimed Fashion Designer for the Space Age, Dies at 98 - Hollywood Reporter

Posted: 29 Dec 2020 07:40 AM PST

The Dior protege dressed The Beatles and Lauren Bacall and redefined fashion's business model as he built an international empire of licensed products.

Pierre Cardin, the Italian-born French designer of an eternal tomorrow who defined the futuristic look of the 1960s and revolutionized the business of high fashion, died today. He was 98.

Cardin died Tuesday at the American Hospital in Neuilly-sur-Seine, just outside Paris, his family told the Agence France-Presse.

During his seven-decade career, Cardin came to be known for his avant-garde creativity in both fashion and business, and his futuristic materials and stark silhouettes with geometric details became synonymous with the Space Age. A Cardin garment is unmistakable with its trademark minimalism and almost complete disregard for the female form; it is the antithesis of the womanly "New Look" pioneered by Christian Dior, with whom Cardin worked before founding his eponymous couture fashion house in 1950.

In describing his philosophy, Cardin often said, "My favorite garment is the one I invent for a life that does not yet exist, the world of tomorrow." His designs, worn by the likes of The Beatles and Lauren Bacall, established a mod-chic aesthetic long before 2001: A Space Odyssey hit theaters in 1968. He was fascinated with the idea of space travel, often incorporating goggles and helmets into his looks, and he was the first civilian to try on Buzz Aldrin's original space suit before designing his own version for NASA in 1970.

Cardin carried this sense of adventurousness into the business realm as well; his rejection of fashion's traditional strategies ushered in a new era of accessibility in luxury design. He was the first major French couturier to sell ready-to-wear clothing in a department store and the first of his peers to grow his fashion house into an international empire of licensed products. And he was the first Parisian couture designer to create men's clothing.

Today, he may be more known for his licensing deals than his fashion. There are more than 900 licensed Pierre Cardin products available in 140 countries, from cars, perfumes and sunglasses to bottled water, wine and pens. His business model ruffled feathers in the fashion community yet was widely imitated.

"Cardin created a brand — before that word was used as a business definition — and went on to break every code and development plan you would find in a manual about smart fashion management," fashion critic Suzy Menkes wrote in Brazilian Vogue in 2014.

Pietro Cardini was born in northeastern Italy on July 2, 1922, and he spent his early years in San Biagio di Callalta, a small city near Treviso. His parents, both French, relocated the family to their homeland in 1924 to escape the threat of fascism. Cardin went to school in central France and showed an early interest in dressmaking even though his father, a wine merchant, wanted him to study architecture.

At 14, Cardin started work as a clothier's apprentice and at 17 left home to work for a tailor in Vichy. He served in the Red Cross in World War II, but after the war, he longed for a return to fashion.

"I didn't feel like continuing to be a Red Cross worker," Cardin said in a 1998 interview with the Italian newspaper La Stampa. "A fortune teller — a 65-year-old woman in Vichy — read my cards and told me that I would be successful, exceptionally successful, and that my name would be known as far away as Australia. I thought she was crazy because, at that time, I didn't have anything."

In 1945, Cardin moved to Paris to continue his design career and found work in the Paquin fashion house, where he helped design dresses for director Jean Cocteau's Beauty and the Beast (1946). He briefly worked for famed fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli before joining Christian Dior's newly opened eponymous couture house in 1947.

Cardin assisted with the creation of Dior's revolutionary feminine, full-skirted New Look, often credited with revitalizing haute couture in France. Some members of the fashion press saw him as the Frenchman's natural successor, but he left the House of Dior and launched his own brand in 1950.

His solo career took off in 1951, when he created about 30 of the costumes for a masquerade ball hosted in Venice by Spanish art collector Carlos de Beistegui. In 1998, Vanity Fair referred to the event at the Palazzo Labia as "one of the — if not the — most famous balls of the 20th century," and it is still frequently referred to as the party of the century. Cardin began designing for men and presented his first women's couture collection in 1953, soon becoming a member of the official association of French haute couture designers, the Chambre Syndicale.

He debuted what would come to be one of his most recognizable designs, the bubble dress, in 1954. The dress, with a fitted bodice and loose skirt that abruptly gathers at the hem, produces a "bubble" effect. The silhouette offered a novel twist on the full skirts that dominated evening wear at the time and remains popular today. Cardin also became known for his incorporation of unusual materials such as plastics, vinyl, industrial zippers, belt buckles and hammered metals in his designs.

A few years after he was allowed into the haute couture establishment, Cardin started to rebel against it, acknowledging the decline of haute couture and the potential value of pre-measured, pret-a-porter garments. After opening men's and women's boutiques (dubbed Adam and Eve in 1954 and 1957, respectively), he took over a corner of the Parisian department store Printemps for his Pierre Cardin collection in 1957 and was expelled from the Chambre Syndicale soon after.

"I am a reactionary. I always try to do the opposite of reality," Cardin told The New York Times in 2002. "When I did the 'P.C.' logo, it was a scandal! I had a big 'P.C.' on my chest, and people said, 'How dare you put your initials on a garment!' And now it's Chanel on the shoe, on the bag! We're labeled to death!"

Despite losing the blessing of the Chambre Syndicale (later reinstated), Cardin's star only rose. He presented women's and men's ready-to-wear collections and developed a stable of Hollywood clients. He told The New York Times: "Women came to Pierre Cardin for youth. I had Eva Perón, María Félix and Rita Hayworth as clients — the three grand dames of my time." Cardin also dressed Bacall, who wore his fuchsia mini-dress with molded pyramid shapes in her 1968 CBS special Bacall and the Boys, and he created the collarless suits that The Beatles wore in the cover art for their 1963 single "I Want to Hold Your Hand." Gregory Peck, Rex Harrison and Mick Jagger also were clients.

It was during this period that Cardin began to take on projects that were not strictly in the fashion realm — he indulged his obsession with space travel by designing his own version of NASA's original space suit and was contracted to redesign the uniforms for Pakistan International Airlines, as well as the national costume of the Philippines (the Barong Tagalog), gaining international acclaim. He also was one of the five French couturiers who participated in the 1973 "Battle of Versailles," which pitted the French fashion establishment against a new wave of American designers.

Though some saw his label's ubiquity as a cautionary tale of an overstretched brand, Cardin remained confident in his business practices.

"I've done it all! I even have my own water! I'll do perfumes, sardines. Why not?" Cardin told The New York Times. "During the war, I would have rather smelled the scent of sardines than of perfume. If someone asked me to do toilet paper, I'd do it."

Cardin continued to release regular collections through the 1980s and '90s as he built his business empire (buying and expanding Maxim's restaurant and hotel franchise) and moved into the Palais Bulles (Bubble House) near Cannes. Meanwhile, he was named a UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador in 1991 after starting a variety of humanitarian projects for the victims of the Chernobyl nuclear disaster.

He attempted to sell his company in 2011, asking for more than $1.1 billion. The Wall Street Journal estimated the value at closer to $223 million, and Cardin did not find a buyer.

He had no known survivors.

15 Shirt Jackets For Women: The Shacket Trend Taking Over - STYLECASTER

Posted: 30 Dec 2020 09:48 AM PST

One of the best parts about cold-weather fashion is the infinite number of outfits you can put together with just a few staple pieces. (Seriously, the limit does not exist.) Your chunky sweaters pair perfectly with skinny jeans, as well as with your wide-leg pants. Your slim-fit turtleneck looks great tucked into a skirt with knee-high boots, but it can also be just as easily worn with your favorite high-waisted pants. And now, there's a new layer that's here to make any wardrobe even cozier: the shacket, aka the shirt jacket trend.

What is a shacket, you ask? It looks like a shirt, but layers like a jacket. It's heavy enough to provide some warmth, but not too heavy when you find the temperatures creeping into the late sixties when the forecast *clearly* stated a high of 64 degrees last time you checked. (Weathermen these days just can't get it right, can they?) It's the perfect middle ground between a shirt and a jacket. And when layered over your outfit on a chilly day, a next-level ensemble is born.

Think of a shacket as the colder weather alternative to jean jackets (which, IMO, are better worn in the spring and summer). They come in a variety of fabrics—from corduroy to fleece—and are the perfect finishing touch to any fall and winter outfit. Whether you live in leggings during this season or never take off your chicest denim, there are so many shackets just waiting to elevate your favorite lewks. Scroll down to shop our faves, and prepare to get cozy AF.

Our mission at STYLECASTER is to bring style to the people, and we only feature products we think you'll love as much as we do. Please note that if you purchase something by clicking on a link within this story, we may receive a small commission of the sale.

Courtesy of Nasty Gal.

Everything's In Check Shirt Jacket

This plaid shirt jacket just screams cold weather vibes. I can't wait to layer it over a crop top and high waisted jeans.

Courtesy of Topshop.

Alma Crocodile Faux Leather Shirt Jacket

For those who want to try something a little different, opt for a bright faux leather shacket (!) this season. Wear it with just your favorite bralette underneath or add a graphic tee. The choice is yours.

Courtesy of BB Dakota.

Plaid Shirt Jacket

Oof, I just can't get over how perfect plaid is for the shacket trend. This BB Dakota green check shirt jacket is at the top of my wishlist right now.

Courtesy of ASOS DESIGN.

Curve Scuba Shacket

When you want a neutral with a bit of flare, you can't go wrong with this long, cinched-sleeve shacket. The tan color pairs well with just about anything, but the little details make it stand out from the rest.

Courtesy of BP.

Teddy Shirt Jacket

For those who adore fuzzy teddy jacket vibes when the temperatures are freezing, you can't go wrong with a teddy shirt jacket. Talk about cozy!

Courtesy of PrettyLittleThing.

Checked Pocket-Front Shacket

This checked pocket-front shacket is perfect for cold winter days and crisp autumn nights alike—along with Instagram photoshoots, of course.

Courtesy of Nasty Gal.

Patent Us A Picture Oversized Shirt Jacket

OK, all these faux leather shirt jackets are too cool to pass up this season. I particularly love the dark olive hue on this beaut from Nasty Gal.

Courtesy of PrettyLittleThing.

Red Check Button Down Maxi Shacket

This plaid maxi shacket is an actual mood. The colors are perfect for fall and winter, while the extra length adds some unexpected interest. Overall, it's a winner.

Courtesy of BP.

Teddy Shirt Jacket

Catch me living in this cool tie-dye teddy shirt jacket this season. It's the perfect way to bring summer's tie-dye trend into the colder months seamlessly.

Courtesy of PrettyLittleThing.

Camel Checked Borg Longline Shacket

Oh, you thought we were done with the fuzzy jacket vibes? As if. This camel checked borg shacket is about to be the coolest item in your closet.

Courtesy of Missguided.

Red Houndstooth Print Shacket

In addition to plaid, houndstooth is another fun trend that never gets old. This houndstooth print shirt jacket is the stuff that cozy dreams are made of.

Courtesy of Ten Sixty Sherman.

Faux Leather Shirt Jacket

If you, like me, can't get enough of the faux leather trend, try this classic black shacket from Ten Sixty Sherman. Wear it as a cool button down or throw it over your favorite fall top.

Courtesy of Noisy May.

Gray & Blue Check Shacket

You can't go wrong with a classic gray and blue plaid shacket. Paired with neutrals or other fun and bright hues, you'll look cute AF.

Courtesy of BP.

Plaid Fleece Shirt Jacket

And, one more plaid shirt jacket for the road. (Sorry not sorry!) This pick from BP. features a cozy fleece fabric, too—which is sure to keep you extra warm this season.

Courtesy of BDG Urban Outfitters.

Corduroy Shirt Jacket

Corduroy is the fabric of the season, so why not ditch the cord pants and opt for a corduroy shacket instead?

A version of this article originally appeared in October 2019.

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